Andaman Beach (Sunrise Beach) south - part of fishing village right, hillside bungalows of Viewpoint, far left (image Castaway Resort)IMPORTANT NOTE XXX - I'M IN THE PROCESS OF REWRITING THIS PAGE FOLLOWING MY LATEST TRIP - SO CALL BACK IN A FEW DAYS FOR THE LATEST INFO AND MORE PIX - Friday Dec 18.
Most of this report was written after my March 07 visit. But I have added updates when appropriate following my November 08 trip - and there is a specific update section at the end : "Lipe Jumps the Shark".
Lipe is a fair bit more developed since I was first there in 99, but it remains a pretty nice place to visit with several good white sand beaches, some fairly nice snorkeling, good diving, a variety of accommodation, restaurants and bars - and yet not overbuilt. There are no roads and not many motorcycles on the various tracks. Hey, and there are very few dogs! It is fairly compact - I did a circumnavigation of the settled eastern two thirds of the island in around 3 hours.
Map from Pooh Bungalow
Area map from Sea CanoeIn March it had a fair number of travellers without being overcrowded, but I believe peak season late Dec and Jan saw lots of visitors - Lipe is kinda the flavor of the times.
I stayed at VIEWPOINT BUNGALOWS which read up real nice in the travel guides and on travelfish.
I wasn’t disappointed. This is an old style beach-hut type place, with rustic bungalows built up the steep hillside overlooking twin compact bays just south of a small headland at the end of the big eastern beach, Andaman.
Most of these bungalows have very nice views from their verandas. Mine was the second highest, cut into the rainforest up a pretty awesome set of stairs, and was panoramic - a small islet just offshore, Taratao in the far distance, mountainous Ko Adang close to the north with the sweep of Andaman Bay between.
View from my bungalow directly east.
....and north.Viewpoint's bungalows are built on the steep hillside behind the twin bays, all with pretty nice views. They are traditional woven-bamboo wall, thatch-roof style places of various sizes from one-bed to pretty spacious. They were the cheapest beachside bungalows on the island in 07 (400) and again in Dec 09 (asking 350).
I had one of the bigger ones, way up a set of killer steps, the 2nd highest bungalow. Note most of the bungalows are in the first 2 rows and the climb to these is not difficult.
Rustic is the best way to describe my bungalow - it was just like the good old days. It was solid and clean, but I swear it had a very small (say 2 degree) sideways tilt, although the huge bed (king size - double++ - with thick seemingly brand-new comfy mattress, nice pillows, ornate top-cover and sheets and good mozzie net) was dead level.
Very rustic was the lighting - the switch to the main room light did not work - it was turned off by unscrewing the bulb!!!! Far out - I left the bulb unscrewed, the bathroom and balcony lights gave plenty of illumination - but despite the dodgy electrics, the size, the comfy bed and the amazing view from the big wrap-around veranda made the bungalow well and truly worth the 400b.
Now in contrast, the lighting all the way up the steps to my place, which I thought would be a death trap at night, was very good.
The bungalow came with one towel and hand towel although for two people I imagine it is just a matter of asking. No soap, no toilet paper, no hammock on the deck - 2 plastic chairs and some very ornate artistic woodwork if that sort of thing cites your ex. The veranda opened into the bungalow by full width folding doors which created a kind of pavilion effect. There were extensive clotheslines where it wrapped around the side of the bungalow. Inside were lots of hooks, some wall shelves and lots of storage on the horizontal wall framework.
The attached bathroom had western toilet, awsome water pressure and a good mirror.
A caveat here - these higher bungalows are cut into the rainforest, so at times during the night there are crashes and thrashes outside in the bush, plus a few meece scuttling across the rafters. Rustic. As I said, just like the good old days.
The no-frills restaurant was down at beach level and consisted of 4 plastic tables + chairs. Food was standard bungalow (good), prices perhaps slightly higher than the average budget bungalow (that is - still very reasonable) and the service was fast if a bit dour - it was hard to get a smile out of the girls. The youngish guy with crook eyes who owns the joint is very friendly and obliging.
BEACHES
PATTAYA BEACH on the south side of the island is the main beach and had gone from one-third built on in 99 to fully built out now. Nevertheless it is still quite attractive** with white sand, pretty clean water which is deep at all tides, some trees for shade at some parts of the beach and some interesting patches of coral at both ends which are okay for snorkeling.
Pattaya gets even nicer at night when several outfits set up restaurants and bars with candle-lit tables etc on the sand.
** See my later section - PATTAYA JUMPS THE SHARK.
There are lots of places to stay along here - in my low budget range, the ones I liked the looks of most were the headland bungalows of PATTAYA SONG - high up overlooking the beach at the western end. In March these were a very reasonable 500 for the big front rowers and 300 for the newer smaller bamboo jobs higher up (800 and 500 in Nov 08 before bargaining). I stayed in the former for a few nights in 99 when they were new, and the view was great.
Pattaya Beach - real nice at night when the restaurants on the sand set up - not too shabby by day either (image Poh Bungalows)
Nov 08 shot. The headland concrete bungalows of Pattaya Song on the western end of Pattaya Beach (out of frame to the left of the previous photo). This angle from the corner of the beach is deceptive because the bungalows actually look directly down the beach and there is a bunch of cheaper more trad style ones with similar views behind and higher. Departing Lipe, my boat went past the seaward side of this headland (well duh!) and there were similar nice looking bungalows high up looking directly out to sea. A new place, Sanom Beach Resort, which looks trad budget in style, has built on a small cove behind this headland, accessed by a track over the headland - looks kinda nice. Pattaya Song's rather good restaurant is at beach level tucked in against the headland to the right of the far beach umbrella. They also have some nice not too exxy looking beach level and second row bungalows to the right. Daya Resort's restaurant is directly right of the camera and has been a good one in the past. This end of Pattaya used to be busiest, but now is the quietest section - so if you value fewer noisy longtails and want to stay on Pattaya, this could be the region. The new luxury resort is very close for all you big-mover bond traders. Umm - on reflection, after the second half of 08 maybe you dudes will be staying at a 300b Viewpoint cheapie with tezza.SUNSET BEACH is in the north-west of the island, reached by taking the track to the right hand side (facing inland) of Daya Restaurant near Pattaya Song and walking moderate slopes thru the forest for about 10 minutes. This is a smaller, much quieter beach with 2 accomm places, PORN and FISHERIES DEPT BUNGALOWS.
I also stayed at Porn in 99 - it is the typical old style bungalow place and seemed little changed except for maybe more bungalows (500 and 300 in Nov 08) and tents (150) The restaurant is nice although prices were a bit higher than VIEWPOINT.
FISHERIES DEPT is only abt 100m further north-east, with a similar restaurant and very cheap accom at 250b in what seemed to be rooms in concrete blocks rather than bungalows.
Just inland from these (take the walkway in from SUBAYE SPORTS (diving)) is FLOWER POWER BAKERY with some yummy pastries, good normal meals and great shakes etc. Prices are not budget-bungalow cheap, but the stuff is real nice. (Fisheries was closed Nov 08 for what looked to be major extensions).
Sunset Beach near Porn Bungalows (image Poh Bungalow )
A tezza shot Nov 08 - Porn's bungalows and restaurant are behind the trees to the right, but have good sea-views. There was major constuction work going on at Fisheries Dept at the far end which made the beach less pristine than I remember it - but it still doesn't look too bad at all. I had a real nice swim and some sun-time.ANDAMAN BEACH is the long beach which takes up most of the eastern side of the island. The section in the middle is dominated by the fishing village and is crowded with long tails, fishing traps etc and is the least attractive section, but as you head north it gets real nice. There are about 4 resorts in this diection. ANDAMAN RESORT is the northern most one and has a huge range of bungalows.
The nicest section of beach on the island IMHO is right at the northern tip of the east coast where Andaman beach wraps around and turns west to form a lovely white sand spit which extends outwards a short distance towards Ko Adang.
The northern end of Andaman is nicest - Andaman Resort's restaurant is to the left as are the more expensive bungalows. The traditional fan jobs are under those casuarina trees further from camera. The beach turns hard left towards Mountain Resort at the end - that is mountainous Ko Adang you can see background right.MOUNTAIN RESORT is situated at the top of a low cliff overlooking this section, and is probably the most attractive accommodation on the island. Bungalows ranged from 2000b upmarket jobs on the edge of the cliff to more trad 600b fan ones built up the slope away from the edge (1100 with breakfast in Nov 08!) - I had a look at one 600/1100 and it was very nice - way superior to my 400 VIEWPOINT one in all but outlook. The restaurant is built on the edge of the cliff with sensational views and prices which seemed no higher than Porn’s or Fishery Dept’s.
MOUNTAIN also has a bar at beach level - KARMA BAR - which looked pretty good and according to TT posters, is quite cool late arvo and at night.
Note that the most north-westerly of ANDAMAN RESORT’s bungalows are at beach level on this lovely section of beach - a bit east of MOUNTAIN. These are nice looking but not flash bungalows, yet seemed unoccupied in March - ANDAMAN is huge and these bungalows must be about 300m from its restaurant which overlooks the eastern section of the beach. (drainage problems in this northern section made these bungalows less attractive when I stayed at Andaman in Nov 08 (it had rained quite a bit) - so I grabbed one closer to the restaurant. Mine was a back-rower because I thought the front row prices were a little high at 600baht - but on reflection the front row fan bungalows north of the restaurant are probably the best positioned/value here).
Panoramic shot from Mountain Resort's restaurant - Ko Adang in background. That's the northern most section of Andaman beach forming a spit on the right - Andaman Resort has bungalows very close to the beach there (images Mountain Resort )
Same section of beach - the Karma bar is at beach level.
The section of Andaman Beach south of the fishing village also improves, although it can be a bit shallow along here at lowest tide. There are about another half dozen bungalow places along here, most budget in style although LOTUS DIVE had some big new attractive flash-packer looking bungalows in a separated section slightly in from the beach.
VIEWPOINT BUNGALOWS’ TWO LITTLE BEACHES just south of Andaman beach in those small twin bays are very nice, particularly the further, most southerly one. Back in 99 there was no resort here or on the southern half of Andaman, yet it was still popular with travelers. Note at low tide it can get real shallow, particularly in the northern bay where the coral was exposed right across to the small forested islet about 150m offshore (in a month’s lowest (no moon) tide). The same conditions in the southern bay saw okay swimming in the sandy sections between coral outcrops and wading possible right out to the reef drop-off. Snorkeling was good along the drop-off at all tides and fairly interesting closer to the beach at higher tide levels.
Note there was a slight tidal current moving thru this area at higher tide levels - I found it easy to swim against but parents should keep an eye on kids. The same current moves along the reef drop-off at low tide.
The more southern of Viewpoint's twin bays - the bungalows are built up the hill behind to the left.WALKING AROUND THE SOUTH EAST CORNER TO PATTAYA
DON’T!
I saw a few people walking on past VIEWPOINT’S bays at low tide in an attempt to get around to Pattaya Beach. I saw them walking back. It is very difficult and dangerous. I did it in 99 - it took me about 90 minutes (I had figured 10), there are several cliffs which you must climb up or down, and on one my hand-hold broke off (weathered rock - d'oh, what a surprise with all that salt air about!) and I nearly fell and broke my neck.
The best way is to go back to Andaman and use that daggy track (packed with restaurants, ticket sellers, “supermarkets”, tattoo bars, trinket sellers, t-shirt vendors and the famous POH‘S) between the fishing village and Pattaya.
You can also climb the steep stairs thru VIEWPOINT - at the top the track drops thu the jungle, goes past a few local residential areas and comes out near Poh’s, but this aint really any shorter. Nice walk though and you see my bungalow, 2nd highest at VEWPOINT - totally cool.
Avert your eyes if the long term French girl resident of the highest bungalow is walking around her veranda naked. I was shocked at this affront to Thai cultural standards - but I didn’t say anything, partly because I didn’t want to embarrass her. But mainly because she had a totally hot body.
EXCURSIONS
I didn’t worry this time, but in 99 I took one of the snorkeling trips offered by Porn Bungalows to the surrounding area. This took a half day and we first snorkeled a reef mid way between Lipe and Ko Rawi, and then did fringing reefs on both Rawi and Ko Adang. The coral and fish life were pretty good by Thai standards.
Lipe has a number of dive operators and there are many dive sites in the surrounding area.
It's dead easy to grab a longtail at 50b per person (Nov 08) and spend time on Adang's lovely beach. There is a great scenic lookout which only takes 30 minutes to access and a less than whelming waterfall after an hour or so's nice rainforest walk which turns into a circus river rock hop the last 300m. See my Adang page.
FOOD
I'm not a gourmet. Being a budget traveller, if it's cheap, fills me and tastes okay, I'm happy. But for food lovers Sbruny provided this in February 09- "Koh Lipe is limited for excellent food. The best thai is at the Jungle Bar in the middle of the island. For seafood try the sea gypsie place on Pattaya beach. For nice view with meal the Mountain Resort can't be beat. For tasty friend chicken try the muslim ladies behind the local school early in the morning. Overall, I would say the food on Koh Lipe very average compared to the rest of Thailand. However, the island and surrounding are spectacular."
RUBBISH PROBLEMS ON LIPE
Lipe gets bad press from some visitors for high amounts of trash on beaches, around building sites and dumped beside hinterland tracks and the fishing village outskirts.
Early dry season beach junk on north end of Andaman (Sunrise) Beach (image WEBME - click the link for other similar shots) 
Bigger image from THEMANZOMANDISTARSQUADRON - still Andaman Beach
Beach rubbish is largely a seasonal thing. Most of it is Thai domestic rubbish + rainforest debris carried to the ocean by flooding wet-season streams + an amazing amount of fishing boat detritus. A lot of this stuff gets moved considerable distances by currents and wind and dumped on Lipe.
In dry season less rubbish gets washed and blown onshore - and a greater proportion is fishing junk. In this season most bungalows are pretty conscientious in cleaning beaches each morning. Few places are open in wet season, so things are let go. If you happen to arrive very early in dry season before locals get around to clearing the build-up, then WEBME's pix is the result. My Andaman beach shot up page (the one with the speedboat in midground) was taken 2 weeks after WEBME's - a pretty big contrast.
Beach dump of cement bags early dry season (image WEBME)
Unsightly building activity (image ISLANDBOI) - sorry about small image size, Blogger won't do any better but there is a link to ISLANDBOI's photo-website below the next shot where you can access bigger images and plenty of other rubbish shots. Wet season and early dry season sees frantic building activity to finish projects for high season - so unsightly dumps of building materials and building sites are not uncommon. CHANCHAO has pointed out that you can't get somewhere to sleep and have a meal if no building takes place. Hardliners say there are already too much development and the answer is to avoid the island.
Environmentally aware travellers can get depressed by the amount of domestic and bungalow/restaurant trash dumped alongside tracks in the hinterland, on the outskirts of the village and even behind certain bungalows. This is not a seasonal problem - it's 365/12.
Rubbish dumped alongside bush road - this one looks like it's on the outskirts of the fishing village. Terribly small pic - ISLANDBOI's photo-website won't allow me to copy bigger picture and BLOGGER won't accept the picture html code.However both his small shots and a lot more can be seen in full size here - http://travel.webshots.com/photo/2946201110056371109OtcEQu
Like many islands, Lipe has no organised rubbish collection and disposal. And unfortunately some Thais are pretty lazy when disposing of household and tourist generated trash.
Possible answers are environmental education, less laxity, more money and resources (Lipe is part of Satun local government area) and an effort by tourists themselves to cut down on trash generating activities. Suggestions for a national park type quota system - difficult to implement for an island which is not administered by the National Park.
Hardline environmentalists urge travellers to avoid the island. Your call. Note that dumped rubbish is common in SE Asia - maybe sensitive travellers should avoid the area as a whole. I'm so used to it I didn't find Lipe anything out of the ordinary - but certainly if you have just arrived from Lanta, Phuket, Langkawi or other islands where trash collection in most areas is better organised, you could think Lipe looks messy in comparison.
(UPDATE MAY09 - the Satun province and Thai national government have just announdced a plan to ship rubbish back to the mainland from Lipe.)
GETTING THERE
In high season you can get ferries and speedboats from a number of operators out of PAK BARA about midway between Trang and Satun. Note these also call in at Taruatao.
Like many islands, Lipe has no organised rubbish collection and disposal. And unfortunately some Thais are pretty lazy when disposing of household and tourist generated trash.
Possible answers are environmental education, less laxity, more money and resources (Lipe is part of Satun local government area) and an effort by tourists themselves to cut down on trash generating activities. Suggestions for a national park type quota system - difficult to implement for an island which is not administered by the National Park.
Hardline environmentalists urge travellers to avoid the island. Your call. Note that dumped rubbish is common in SE Asia - maybe sensitive travellers should avoid the area as a whole. I'm so used to it I didn't find Lipe anything out of the ordinary - but certainly if you have just arrived from Lanta, Phuket, Langkawi or other islands where trash collection in most areas is better organised, you could think Lipe looks messy in comparison.
(UPDATE MAY09 - the Satun province and Thai national government have just announdced a plan to ship rubbish back to the mainland from Lipe.)
GETTING THERE
In high season you can get ferries and speedboats from a number of operators out of PAK BARA about midway between Trang and Satun. Note these also call in at Taruatao.
They sure do pack them in - there were another 4 people closer to me in this undercover section. I had to stand on this Nov 08 Taruatao to Lipe trip, but I didn't mind - if the sea is bumpy it can be hard on the bum. The bow section was packed too - I counted 11 passengers out there. The ferry trip is real pleasant and way cheaper if you have the time - particularly the slow ferry.- a fast ferry from the Thammalang pier about 10km south of SATUN (which is also where the ferries from Malaysia’s Langkawi island come in - although their are direct Lipe Langkawi servides - see below). (Nov 08 - the ranger on Ko Turatao where the Satun ferry also puts in tells me it has not run so far this high season and he doesn't think it will - I think the new boats direct from Langkawi may have killed this service).
- the SPD speedboat from KO LANTA which will also pick up at Kos Muk, Ngai and Bulon Lae.
- a fast boat and a speedboat directly from LANGKAWI - immigration formalities at one of the Lipe bungalows.
- Tigerline ferries which now runs from Phi Phi/Lanta to Lipe and on to Langkawi - stopping at several islands and the mainland pier at Hat Yao south of Trang on the way down. Tigerline also has a minibus service from Phuket, Surathani, Krabi/Ao Nang and Khao Lak to connect with its ferries.
I have details of how to get to the Hat Yao pier at Ban Chao Mai independently on my Libong page, although Tigerline's minibus will transfer you from Trang railway station and airport.
For the budget conscious costs increase significantly in order of Pak Bara, Satun, Langkawi and Lanta.
Note that there is no pier at Lipe. Most boats stop offshore and people are ferried to the beach by longtails - about 50baht. There is often a longtail from Ko Adang to meet boats. (UPDATE - seems any longtail meeting the ferry will take you over to Adang for 50 baht - and anywhere around Lipe island for the same - this is a really good service. Some ferries and speedboats pull into a pontoon off Pattaya Beach - other speedboats use a pontoon not too far off Porn at Sunset Beach and a lot of ferries moor a bit further east between Lipe and Adang. The longtails distribute their passengers from these places).
- a fast boat and a speedboat directly from LANGKAWI - immigration formalities at one of the Lipe bungalows.
- Tigerline ferries which now runs from Phi Phi/Lanta to Lipe and on to Langkawi - stopping at several islands and the mainland pier at Hat Yao south of Trang on the way down. Tigerline also has a minibus service from Phuket, Surathani, Krabi/Ao Nang and Khao Lak to connect with its ferries.
I have details of how to get to the Hat Yao pier at Ban Chao Mai independently on my Libong page, although Tigerline's minibus will transfer you from Trang railway station and airport.
For the budget conscious costs increase significantly in order of Pak Bara, Satun, Langkawi and Lanta.
Note that there is no pier at Lipe. Most boats stop offshore and people are ferried to the beach by longtails - about 50baht. There is often a longtail from Ko Adang to meet boats. (UPDATE - seems any longtail meeting the ferry will take you over to Adang for 50 baht - and anywhere around Lipe island for the same - this is a really good service. Some ferries and speedboats pull into a pontoon off Pattaya Beach - other speedboats use a pontoon not too far off Porn at Sunset Beach and a lot of ferries moor a bit further east between Lipe and Adang. The longtails distribute their passengers from these places).
FERRY TIMETABLE.
GETTING TO PAK BARA.
From Hat Yai - minibuses run roughly hourly from the new central minibus station to the pier area - abt 2 hours. You can also get a bus from the bus station but this will be slower.
From Trang - the travel agents in the street parallel to the railway station run minibuses down to the pier (abt 2 hours) and will provide you with a bus/ferry ticket. They can book bungalows - I find them very efficient. Apparently reps meet flights at the airport and shuttle people down to the agencies to book and pick up a minibus.
If you want to do it independently catch a Satun bound bus, get off at La Ngu (Langu) and then get a motorcyle taxi or songthaew the 10km or so to Pak Bara.
Wet Season Transport - for some time there was only one wet season ferry per week from Pak Barra to Lipe - Fridays at 1100 and back Sundays at 0930. There is also a cargo boat you could get a ride on - out Wed 1100, back Fri 1000.
However late in wet season 08 a daily ferry service from Pak Bara kicked in, plus a daily speedboat service.
There were no services wet season 08 from Thammalang near Satun, Langkawi or Tigerline's island-hopper from Phi Phi.
Note that Pak Bara services should begin in full early November 08.
Tigerline's website suggests its island-hopper won't start until Nov 24 08.
FROM LANGKAWI IN MALAYSIA
For several seasons there has been a fast boat from Langkawi to Lipe. I notice the web-site says this season's trips begin Nov 1 2008.
Poster H5N1 sent this updated information forwarded to him by the boat operators:
"Langkawi–Koh Lipe-Langkawi Shuttle Service
Daily shuttle service for 2007/8 season will commence on 1 November 2007. Departing from Telaga Harbour Marina, Pantai Kok, Langkawi at 0930hrs and returning from Koh Lipe at 1730hrs.
Journey will take approximately 1hr 15mins depending on weather condition.
One Way Ticket : RM118/Adult & RM98/Child (Single Trip)
Return Ticket : RM228/Adult & RM188/Child (Day & Round Trip)
Onward Journey : Tarutoa, Koh Bulone, Koh Muk, Koh Ngai, Lanta
Krabi and Phi Phi onwards available
Check-in Time at 0830hrs – 1 hour before expected departure
All passengers are required to have valid travel documents, i.e International Passport. Malaysian Immigration clearance are all done here at Telaga Harbour and the Thai's will do theirs on Lipe. All clearance arrangement will be handled by our agent."
Hey, this is not only a neat way to access Lipe from Malaysia, but gives Thailand visitors a chance of sampling Malaysia. Langkawi is a big, spectacular tourist island with accommodation in all price ranges. And it is DUTY FREE!
Note you can transfer from Langkawi to Penang on a fast ferry.
See Tigerline's and SPD speedboats website above for their Lipe-Langkawi services.
I came down to Lipe from Bulon Lae in the SPB speedboat (which runs between Lanta and Lipe picking up at several islands between) because the old slow ferry no longer runs - cost was 500. Took a bit over an hour, and the ride can be a bit rough, particularly if you sit up the front.
I went back on the express ferry to Pak Bara which is actually the slow ferry. Real nice views of the Tarataos and other interim islands from the open but shaded top deck seats. It is cheaper at 300b than the fast ferries, if you buy your ticket on the island, and a good option over these faster ferries which leave earlier, if you are intending to catch one of the travelers’ minivans from Pak Bara north to Trang, Lanta, Krabi. These vans wait for the slow ferry to come in, and so if you take the faster ones you will be sitting around in Pak Bara for 2-3 hours - Pak Bara is a real hole. Plenty of restaurants, internet etc but hot, dusty, full of travel touts etc. Note the latter will come down in price for minivan and ferry tickets if you are a good bargainer.
If you are going to Hat Yai, minibuses leave hourly.
You can also get to Trang by catching a songthaew or motorcycle-taxi the 10km or so to La Ngu, where the Satun-Trang public buses come thru roughly hourly. Note these terminate in southern Trang about 2km from the center and 4km from the main bus station for buses further north.
GETTING TO PAK BARA.
From Hat Yai - minibuses run roughly hourly from the new central minibus station to the pier area - abt 2 hours. You can also get a bus from the bus station but this will be slower.
From Trang - the travel agents in the street parallel to the railway station run minibuses down to the pier (abt 2 hours) and will provide you with a bus/ferry ticket. They can book bungalows - I find them very efficient. Apparently reps meet flights at the airport and shuttle people down to the agencies to book and pick up a minibus.
If you want to do it independently catch a Satun bound bus, get off at La Ngu (Langu) and then get a motorcyle taxi or songthaew the 10km or so to Pak Bara.
Wet Season Transport - for some time there was only one wet season ferry per week from Pak Barra to Lipe - Fridays at 1100 and back Sundays at 0930. There is also a cargo boat you could get a ride on - out Wed 1100, back Fri 1000.
However late in wet season 08 a daily ferry service from Pak Bara kicked in, plus a daily speedboat service.
There were no services wet season 08 from Thammalang near Satun, Langkawi or Tigerline's island-hopper from Phi Phi.
Note that Pak Bara services should begin in full early November 08.
Tigerline's website suggests its island-hopper won't start until Nov 24 08.
FROM LANGKAWI IN MALAYSIA
For several seasons there has been a fast boat from Langkawi to Lipe. I notice the web-site says this season's trips begin Nov 1 2008.
Poster H5N1 sent this updated information forwarded to him by the boat operators:
"Langkawi–Koh Lipe-Langkawi Shuttle Service
Daily shuttle service for 2007/8 season will commence on 1 November 2007. Departing from Telaga Harbour Marina, Pantai Kok, Langkawi at 0930hrs and returning from Koh Lipe at 1730hrs.
Journey will take approximately 1hr 15mins depending on weather condition.
One Way Ticket : RM118/Adult & RM98/Child (Single Trip)
Return Ticket : RM228/Adult & RM188/Child (Day & Round Trip)
Onward Journey : Tarutoa, Koh Bulone, Koh Muk, Koh Ngai, Lanta
Krabi and Phi Phi onwards available
Check-in Time at 0830hrs – 1 hour before expected departure
All passengers are required to have valid travel documents, i.e International Passport. Malaysian Immigration clearance are all done here at Telaga Harbour and the Thai's will do theirs on Lipe. All clearance arrangement will be handled by our agent."
Hey, this is not only a neat way to access Lipe from Malaysia, but gives Thailand visitors a chance of sampling Malaysia. Langkawi is a big, spectacular tourist island with accommodation in all price ranges. And it is DUTY FREE!
Note you can transfer from Langkawi to Penang on a fast ferry.
See Tigerline's and SPD speedboats website above for their Lipe-Langkawi services.
I came down to Lipe from Bulon Lae in the SPB speedboat (which runs between Lanta and Lipe picking up at several islands between) because the old slow ferry no longer runs - cost was 500. Took a bit over an hour, and the ride can be a bit rough, particularly if you sit up the front.
I went back on the express ferry to Pak Bara which is actually the slow ferry. Real nice views of the Tarataos and other interim islands from the open but shaded top deck seats. It is cheaper at 300b than the fast ferries, if you buy your ticket on the island, and a good option over these faster ferries which leave earlier, if you are intending to catch one of the travelers’ minivans from Pak Bara north to Trang, Lanta, Krabi. These vans wait for the slow ferry to come in, and so if you take the faster ones you will be sitting around in Pak Bara for 2-3 hours - Pak Bara is a real hole. Plenty of restaurants, internet etc but hot, dusty, full of travel touts etc. Note the latter will come down in price for minivan and ferry tickets if you are a good bargainer.
If you are going to Hat Yai, minibuses leave hourly.
You can also get to Trang by catching a songthaew or motorcycle-taxi the 10km or so to La Ngu, where the Satun-Trang public buses come thru roughly hourly. Note these terminate in southern Trang about 2km from the center and 4km from the main bus station for buses further north.
A GOOD LIPE WEBSITE
AND ANOTHER
UPDATE LATE DEC O7
JimmyK just filed this report about his Dec visit to Lipe:
"I had booked a week at Mountain Resort on the quieter side of the island at Sunrise Beach. It looked idyllic and I’d read some good reviews on here about the place. I wasn’t disappointed initially. The location was amazing with the huts perched on the edge of a small cliff face overlooking a beautiful beach and Koh Adang in the background. I splashed for the Deluxe Cabin, 2200 Baht a night, as I’m on holiday and with the missus and I have to make my life as easy as possible when she’s in tow. Ok, first the positives about Mountain Resort. It has a great location with beautiful views. The rooms are clean and well thought-out with hot water and satellite TV. And Karma bar is great, very chilled place for a drink or two in the evening.
One thing I had heard about this place was that it is owned by a big-shot Thai who is responsible for a lot of the development on Koh Lipe and the exclusion of the local Chao Ley people (please correct me if I’m wrong). However, I was quite impressed by the relative low-impact of the resort. It isn’t an eye-sore and there isn’t rubbish scattered everywhere. The beach is kept clean and there is an active recycling scheme in place, even down to having a water-bottle refilling station to reduce plastic waste. In contrast when I walked along the beach to the Chao Ley village, the beach in front of the village is strewn with litter left by the local people. Empty diesel canisters, metal battery parts etc.
Anyway, back to Mountain Resort and I’m afraid that’s where the positives end. The restaurant has great views but resembles a canteen with no atmosphere whatsoever. Also, the service is very very slow and not particularly friendly. Food and drink is expensive compared to resorts at Pattaya beach. The Thai food is average and the western food is awful, possibly the worst I’ve had in Thailand. And it doesn’t end there. From early in the morning, around 7am onwards the longtails create a hell of a lot of noise which can be heard from anywhere in the resort and sounds like you are sleeping next to the world’s loudest snorer. So, we only stayed 3 nights of the planned week and after visiting Pattaya beach for the day, decided to relocate there.
But before I go into that I will finish with Sunrise beach first, and particularly a new resort called Castaway.We had a couple of meals at Castaway Resort but didn’t stay there. It’s newly opened and seems to be run by an English guy. The accommodation looks really nice with large huts just set back from the beach. The restaurant area is also nicely designed with a raised area with hammocks and cushions. The food here is very good, both Thai and Western and the service is friendly and attentive. Castaway is only a short walk coming from Pattaya beach past Pooh’s bar, with the path coming out right at Castaways on the beach. Also, it’s worth noting that the snorkelling is excellent off the beach between the two small islands 100m in front of Castaway. Beware though of the current as this side of the island is especially windy and the sea can get choppy. Another cool thing to do is scramble across the rocks on the headland that connects Sunrise beach to Pattaya beach. It took us about 2 hours and it involves a bit of actual climbing with decent climbing shoes but it’s a good way to kill a few hours.
And so to Pattaya beach. I expected this beach to be busy being the main drag, and it seemed to be running at full occupancy when I checked out places but it was still pretty low-key. Kinda like Koh Chang’s White Sand Beach 8 years ago before it got bought up and trashed. Bundhaya Resort seems to be the biggy with most families staying here. Nice place though with good food and service and reasonably priced. We stayed at Varins in a regular AC villa for 1500 Baht. Loved it. One thing you really notice after staying on a quieter beach as part of a captive audience is service is so much better and the prices lower when there’s a bit of competition. The bay here can be busy with boats but go to either end by the rocks for calm safe water and good snorkelling.Walking inland towards the infamous Pooh’s bar you’ll pass small shops selling the usual tourist tack and offering massages, tattoos etc. There’s more being built and I’m sure in a few years it will resemble the alleys of Phi Phi. Pooh’s is apparently an institution and rightly so. The bar is full of atmosphere, with live music, pool table. The restaurant does great food and the service from Pooh himself and his staff is exceptional. Highly recommended.
Anyway, that’s it. Koh Lipe was great, still a quiet island, maybe not for long, and you might argue that reviews like mine will only make it worse, but there you go. It will happen eventually anyway, unless regulations are put in place."
Okay, Jimmy's perpective is good value because unlike me he is not a budget traveller. Looks like Mountain's food prices have risen since my visit in March. And longtail noise is the bane of many otherwise great Thai beach locations.
AND ANOTHER
UPDATE LATE DEC O7
JimmyK just filed this report about his Dec visit to Lipe:
"I had booked a week at Mountain Resort on the quieter side of the island at Sunrise Beach. It looked idyllic and I’d read some good reviews on here about the place. I wasn’t disappointed initially. The location was amazing with the huts perched on the edge of a small cliff face overlooking a beautiful beach and Koh Adang in the background. I splashed for the Deluxe Cabin, 2200 Baht a night, as I’m on holiday and with the missus and I have to make my life as easy as possible when she’s in tow. Ok, first the positives about Mountain Resort. It has a great location with beautiful views. The rooms are clean and well thought-out with hot water and satellite TV. And Karma bar is great, very chilled place for a drink or two in the evening.
One thing I had heard about this place was that it is owned by a big-shot Thai who is responsible for a lot of the development on Koh Lipe and the exclusion of the local Chao Ley people (please correct me if I’m wrong). However, I was quite impressed by the relative low-impact of the resort. It isn’t an eye-sore and there isn’t rubbish scattered everywhere. The beach is kept clean and there is an active recycling scheme in place, even down to having a water-bottle refilling station to reduce plastic waste. In contrast when I walked along the beach to the Chao Ley village, the beach in front of the village is strewn with litter left by the local people. Empty diesel canisters, metal battery parts etc.
Anyway, back to Mountain Resort and I’m afraid that’s where the positives end. The restaurant has great views but resembles a canteen with no atmosphere whatsoever. Also, the service is very very slow and not particularly friendly. Food and drink is expensive compared to resorts at Pattaya beach. The Thai food is average and the western food is awful, possibly the worst I’ve had in Thailand. And it doesn’t end there. From early in the morning, around 7am onwards the longtails create a hell of a lot of noise which can be heard from anywhere in the resort and sounds like you are sleeping next to the world’s loudest snorer. So, we only stayed 3 nights of the planned week and after visiting Pattaya beach for the day, decided to relocate there.
But before I go into that I will finish with Sunrise beach first, and particularly a new resort called Castaway.We had a couple of meals at Castaway Resort but didn’t stay there. It’s newly opened and seems to be run by an English guy. The accommodation looks really nice with large huts just set back from the beach. The restaurant area is also nicely designed with a raised area with hammocks and cushions. The food here is very good, both Thai and Western and the service is friendly and attentive. Castaway is only a short walk coming from Pattaya beach past Pooh’s bar, with the path coming out right at Castaways on the beach. Also, it’s worth noting that the snorkelling is excellent off the beach between the two small islands 100m in front of Castaway. Beware though of the current as this side of the island is especially windy and the sea can get choppy. Another cool thing to do is scramble across the rocks on the headland that connects Sunrise beach to Pattaya beach. It took us about 2 hours and it involves a bit of actual climbing with decent climbing shoes but it’s a good way to kill a few hours.
And so to Pattaya beach. I expected this beach to be busy being the main drag, and it seemed to be running at full occupancy when I checked out places but it was still pretty low-key. Kinda like Koh Chang’s White Sand Beach 8 years ago before it got bought up and trashed. Bundhaya Resort seems to be the biggy with most families staying here. Nice place though with good food and service and reasonably priced. We stayed at Varins in a regular AC villa for 1500 Baht. Loved it. One thing you really notice after staying on a quieter beach as part of a captive audience is service is so much better and the prices lower when there’s a bit of competition. The bay here can be busy with boats but go to either end by the rocks for calm safe water and good snorkelling.Walking inland towards the infamous Pooh’s bar you’ll pass small shops selling the usual tourist tack and offering massages, tattoos etc. There’s more being built and I’m sure in a few years it will resemble the alleys of Phi Phi. Pooh’s is apparently an institution and rightly so. The bar is full of atmosphere, with live music, pool table. The restaurant does great food and the service from Pooh himself and his staff is exceptional. Highly recommended.
Anyway, that’s it. Koh Lipe was great, still a quiet island, maybe not for long, and you might argue that reviews like mine will only make it worse, but there you go. It will happen eventually anyway, unless regulations are put in place."
Okay, Jimmy's perpective is good value because unlike me he is not a budget traveller. Looks like Mountain's food prices have risen since my visit in March. And longtail noise is the bane of many otherwise great Thai beach locations.
Nov 08 - KO LIPE JUMPS THE SHARK.
Named after that ludicrous plot development on Happy Days which saw long-time fans desert in droves, Jumping the Shark status was achieved by Pattaya, Phuket, Samui and Phi Phi*** some time back. And after an absence of 20 months, my return visit in late November 08 started me thinking that Lipe had gone the same way.
But on reflection, it is Pattaya Beach on Lipe which has jumped the shark. Other areas were either unchanged or actually improved and I had only one other beef with the island as a whole.
Named after that ludicrous plot development on Happy Days which saw long-time fans desert in droves, Jumping the Shark status was achieved by Pattaya, Phuket, Samui and Phi Phi*** some time back. And after an absence of 20 months, my return visit in late November 08 started me thinking that Lipe had gone the same way.
But on reflection, it is Pattaya Beach on Lipe which has jumped the shark. Other areas were either unchanged or actually improved and I had only one other beef with the island as a whole.
But Pattaya - yep, I have to agree with recent travel forum complaints of the log-jam of longtails and other boats there. I think most of the former are concerned with the island’s excellent taxi boat system - they seem to headquarter on Pattaya and blast off to other locations about every 30 seconds when they get a call on their phones. Naturally it’s an inch off a Thai boatman’s manhood if he hasn’t ripped the muffler off his engine and so the constant cacophony was over the top.
How anyone could peacefully lie on the sand while this constant BRAP BRAP BRAP BRAP shattered the peace I can’t understand.
How anyone could peacefully lie on the sand while this constant BRAP BRAP BRAP BRAP shattered the peace I can’t understand.
Smart ones don’t. I spent a few days on neighbouring Ko Adang which has a beautiful, clean and QUIET beach - and a handful of visitors would boat across the less than 2 km from Lipe each day for some beach time.
Part of Adang's beach. This is an L-shaped beach, part of which faces Lipe - this section is around the corner leading north away from Lipe - Lipe is the lower area at left background.
Hey pretty crowded on what was a nice day. Actually there was one guy fishing and two sun-worshippers behind me.
The more northern of the twin bays in front of my favourite elcheapo Viewpoint bungalows also had a dozen or so beach-goers although no-one was staying at the resort (you fools - the best deal on Lipe at only 300b for one of the best beaches and funky bungalows with great views). This beach is fairly quiet for all but the two hours around full tide - at other times the longtails are forced to travel the far side of a small island some distance offshore.
Pattaya Beach has some big time building going on towards the western end where a very high-end resort mit pool and the works was going in just east of Daya, but that didn’t concern me too much and seemed to have minimal impact on the beach in front. High end is inevitable for all Thai islands, visitors will have to get used to it.
Hey pretty crowded on what was a nice day. Actually there was one guy fishing and two sun-worshippers behind me.
The more northern of the twin bays in front of my favourite elcheapo Viewpoint bungalows also had a dozen or so beach-goers although no-one was staying at the resort (you fools - the best deal on Lipe at only 300b for one of the best beaches and funky bungalows with great views). This beach is fairly quiet for all but the two hours around full tide - at other times the longtails are forced to travel the far side of a small island some distance offshore.
Pattaya Beach has some big time building going on towards the western end where a very high-end resort mit pool and the works was going in just east of Daya, but that didn’t concern me too much and seemed to have minimal impact on the beach in front. High end is inevitable for all Thai islands, visitors will have to get used to it.
Big new flash joint towards western end of Pattaya. Doesn't look it here but the front third was about 90% finished - the landscaping was going in. This section will be open before Xmas 08 for sure. The rear two-thirds was less than 50% finished.
By the way, forum contributors post about the whole island being dug up and developed but the only two other significant developments I saw were: on Sunset Beach where Fisheries Department (which last trip had the cheapest bungalows on the island) was doing something big-time (but traditional looking) right on the edge of the beach - which unfortunately for Porn Resort fans seemed to make the whole beach a bit dirtier than its usual very attractive self. And over on the newly paved cross island track between Pattaya and Andaman, lots of shop-front buildings were going in - a potential plus in that the old array of businesses along here were pretty makeshift and tatty in appearance.
My other beef is about the price of bungalows. They have gone up big time in 20 months - Lipe is doing a Phi Phi. I really like Mountain Resort but 1100 for a back rower in shoulder season? Pattaya Song’s headland places were a bit better at 800 and 500 but once again we are talking shoulder - what’s gonna happen high season? Perhaps Porn shows what - 500 and 300 shoulder but 800 and 500 Dec20 to April20.
I like Porn and the trad beachfront bungalows are my type of place, but 800?
I like Porn and the trad beachfront bungalows are my type of place, but 800?
Nice outlook from Porn's restaurant - that is Andang nearest and Rawi behind - both National Park islands.Or Phi Phi Cabana on Andaman - the 400 in late Nov jumps to 900 at peak. Hey, and tents for 500 at peak!
BTW - Pooh’s on the cross island track seemed fair value at 400. Not on the beach, but Pooh’s has always been a step-up. The big turn off for me before was that it was on that crummy dusty/muddy track. No more. Some people worry it aint near the water.
BTW - Pooh’s on the cross island track seemed fair value at 400. Not on the beach, but Pooh’s has always been a step-up. The big turn off for me before was that it was on that crummy dusty/muddy track. No more. Some people worry it aint near the water.
I always hit a new place when I revisit and was determined to try Andaman Resort which has a great position at the northern end of the beach of the same name, but gets bad reviews in the various forums. Um 500 for a not-too-flash trad fan bungalow in the back (3rd) row. And world-champ haggler tezza can’t reduce this a baht. This is immediately on crossing from Adang where I had a gorgeous, huge almost brand new tile-floor and concrete fan bungalow with skylight, dormer windows, tinted sliding doors and fabulous views for 600.
BTW - apart from the exxy bungalows, Andaman Resort wasn’t too bad at all. Maybe I’m easily pleased. I'll do a report on travelfish with a link when I get a chance.
BTW - apart from the exxy bungalows, Andaman Resort wasn’t too bad at all. Maybe I’m easily pleased. I'll do a report on travelfish with a link when I get a chance.
This is a front-rower at Andaman Resort, identical in all other ways to my back-rower. Basically just a traditional bamboo thatch walled fan job with a bathroom and verandah - 600b in late Nov shoulder - 700 come Dec. Nice position - the beach out front is one of the better on Lipe and there are nice views across to Adang which you can see in the background - and to Tarutao and Langkawi if you are a bit further south around the curve of the beach. A fair few longtails during the day (but nowhere near as painfull as on Pattaya Beach) but I noticed it was pretty peaceful at night. It aint as dingy under the trees as this shot appears - my elcheapo point-and-shoot Olympus can't handle contrast variations.
Okay, I mentioned improvements over my 20 month absence.
Well that concrete cross island track is such a plus - the old dirt track was a daggy, dusty (or muddy when it rained) disgrace. Some of the side tracks in the village were also paved for a short distance.
The new paved track - about time! The biggest negative on Lipe eliminated IMHOAndaman beach in front of the fishing village which in the past was a mess of domestic rubbish, old longtail motors, fishing nets, traps and junk seemed a lot cleaner. But the village itself is still a messy disgrace. Come on boys and girls, time to lift your game. And the concrete track doesn’t go right to the beach which makes finding the start from the beach end confusing for first-timers.
Castaways Resort, south of the fishing village on Andaman. I've never seen a place attract so many conflicting reports on travel forums, and a look at its website shows it aint exactly budget. But those 2 storey bungalows look pretty cool to me. The beach here aint great or bad, but Viewpoint's good beach is less than 5 minutes further south and the nice end of Andaman at Andaman Resort/Mountain Resort is 10 minutes north. Brand new joint between Castaways and the village and adjacent to Forra Dive Resort's beachside bungalows. Not open in late Nov 08, but the guy told me one month. Looks like real nice trad style bigger bungalows - trouble is with Lipe pricing doing a Phi Phi I bet these come in at around a 1000 high season like Phi Phi Paradise Pearl's similar newies.
Some of the other complaints which figure on travel forums didn’t register with me. There was dumped rubbish but it didn't strike me as being way more than a lot of other islands.
I've already mentioned the fishing village is still dire.
The beaches had been cleaned from the wet season buildup - although if I'd been a few weeks earlier I would have got WEBME's pix condions.
Overcrowding? Almost December, the airport blockade hadn’t kicked in, and most bungalows seemed to be running at 30% or less. Way less in some cases - Andaman was at maybe 15, and Viewpoint as mentioned - zero.
But sure, Lipe does seem to be the a must do these days and according to all reports high season was very busy.
So should you avoid Lipe? No way in my opinion unless you are actively environmentally-sensitive.
For people who don't like messy beaches, maybe you should avoid really early dry season (say up til the last week of Nov) until the beaches are likely to have been cleared. And wet season if you can get a boat.
Repeat visitors might find it best to beach it out away from Pattaya - on Adang, Viewpoint’s beach, Sunset Beach which was still okay despite the building, or the little beach over the headland from Pattaya Song wher Sanom Beach Resort has been built. I didn’t get to check this on foot, but it sure looked nice from my departing boat and not too many long tails pass this way. The top end of Andaman around Mountain and Andaman Resorts is nice but is busier boat-wise.
Me, in future I’m going to stay on Adang and cross to Lipe for daytrips. The boaties were charging 50baht per person (and they don‘t wait for a full boat, often I was the only passenger, then normally it becomes 100baht) - a rate that seems to be a flat fee all around Lipe. Makes those guys at Ao Nang look like the thieves they are.
***Like Lipe, all these other Jump the Shark places except maybe Pattaya in the central Gulf still have some very nice areas.
UPDATE AUG09 - Hans Meier has an entertaining account of Lipe HERE - he is very good on personalities, has some nice pix and I kinda got the impression he was less than gruntled about Pattaya Beach too.
UPDATE AUG09 - Hans Meier has an entertaining account of Lipe HERE - he is very good on personalities, has some nice pix and I kinda got the impression he was less than gruntled about Pattaya Beach too.
If you have extra info or so mistakes please post them below. If you have any questions, please ask them in THE FORUM rather than below. I don't get a chance to check all threads daily, but unless I'm travelling I'll try to monitor THE FORUM regularly.
